Thai Fusion Kirribilli
Located a stone's throw from the Harbour Bridge in Kirribilli, this little Thai eatery alerts the senses before you even pass through the door. The hiss and clatter of the open kitchen situated at the front of the restaurant commands the scene, sending spice-laden clouds drifting out into the street and drawing hungry patrons in.
On the night we dine, the rain has ushered the hordes past the outdoor seating and into the bright interior. Seats are cheek-by-jowl, which promotes a communal feel as the small space fills with animated conversation. The casual decor of unadorned tables and a muted TV belie the superb quality of the meals, which are created with flair at the centre-stage kitchen. Here the chef expertly tosses ingredients to produce flavours which range from delicate and layered (salmon swimming in coconut milk with the clean zing of chilli and lemongrass) to richly intense (deep-fried quail in a garlic oyster sauce). The staff are attentive and our portions arrived swiftly. With mains hovering between $12.90 and $18.90, the value is excellent.
Outside rain drips steadily onto the quiet street beneath the twinkling lights of the bridge as locals linger for takeaway. It's easy to imagine a breezy lunch on a finer day seated at the outdoor tables. This is obviously a well-kept neighbourhood secret; regulars turn up for a quick bite at the bar-style bench or cluster in post-work groups for a more leisurely meal. It's well worth the trip if you're looking for decent Thai which steps outside the usual favourites to offer dishes with scope and flavour.
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