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Beyond Bubble 'n' Squeak
Republic, schmepublic. There are a few days of the year when even true-blue Aussies stand up and count themselves as dispossessed Poms for the day. Days when well-worn jokes about whinging, soap-phobic Brits are discarded in favour of standing united as members of the Commonwealth and saluting Her Majesty.
Like playing two-up on Anzac Day, there's no better way of showing your commitment to Australia's northern hemisphere origins than by chowing down on some traditional English grub. However, while the mother country is not known for its contributions to culinary art (mushy peas, anyone?), saluting Liz with your fork doesn't have to be a painful experience.
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Interlude
Fitzroy
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Okay, Interlude's cuisine is classed more as European than English, but chef Robin Wickens is as British as warm beer. This young chef is one of the brightest culinary wizards to come out of England, serving an avant-garde selection of French-inspired dishes, marked by quirky combinations of flavours. Wickens' ex-pat nostalgia comes through in a fondness for offal and in witty additions of stereotypical Brit classics. Think corned duck with mandarin and 'bubble and squeak'.
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a'Mews
Glebe
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Another man with a penchant for offal is Richard Moyser, the chef behind a'Mews. Something about Glebe's close-knit cluster of ramshackle buildings reminded Moyser of the mews of his former home - thus the slightly nostalgic, snigger-worthy pun of the restaurant's name. Moyser's menu combines French cooking with the best of British to create such dishes as boudin blanc with crushed peas, smoked ham and black pudding; or his ever-popular beef brisket.
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The Lord Dudley Hotel
Woollahra
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No ode to English stereotypes would be complete without a pinch of aristocracy. The Dudley has been around since the 1890s, making it practically medieval in Sydney terms. This pub specialises in olde worlde charm, featuring old-fashioned furnishings and fireplaces decorating a rabbit warren of cosy rooms. Diners can warm their cockles on a chilly day with a plate of bangers 'n' mash or Irish casserole, along with a foamy pint of Boddingtons.
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Fortnums Restaurant
Sassafras
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If you can squint enough to block out the native trees and bright lorikeets, you could almost pretend this was the conservatory of an English country manor. This air of old-country sophistication is carefully cultivated with a menu of British classics. Tuck into a ploughman's lunch, complete with pickled onions and cheese, or enjoy a pinky-out high tea with Devonshire scones and loose-leaf tea.
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Pig 'n' Whistle
Indooroopilly
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Oddly titled pubs (usually pairing some sort of animal with an entirely unrelated object) are a bit of an English tradition. Thus the Pig 'n' Whistle's alliances are plain before you step inside. Diners can get into the spirit of things with a beef and Guinness pie, washed down with an Old Speckled Hen, while watching an FA Cup match or a game of Gaelic football. Alternatively, those who prefer tea and scones to lager and sport can adjourn to the next room for high tea.
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The Fox Ale House
Darwin
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Along the same lines as the above, the Fox 'n' Fiddle embraces the elements of an old British pub, from the dimly lit bar and patterned carpet to the bangers and mash on the menu. However, faux-British references can only be stretched so far in steamy Darwin; hence, the beer is icy cold and the entertainment leans toward hermit crab races.
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Clarke's of North Beach
North Beach
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If British pub grub's not your thing and you'd rather dine like royalty, make a booking at Clarke's. Ex-pat chef Stephen Clarke was formerly the chef at the shooting estate of the Earl of Leicester before making the move to the colonies, counting Her Maj and the royal rellies among his guests.
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