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Best of the rest


Chefs can now breathe a sigh of relief - or disappointment depending on which chef you talk to - as both The Sydney Morning Herald and The Age have tested, teased and tasted their way across restaurants in Sydney and Melbourne for their Good Food Guide 2009, and awarded those deemed worthy enough a hat, or two - but rarely three. However, for those among us who are a little disenchanted with the eventual winners, or perhaps the entire process of choosing the anointed, this list has some great little gems which may have missed a hat but will still have you enraptured for days afterwards.

1
 
100 Mile Cafe
Melbourne
The philosophy here is uncomplicated; everything on the plate at this restaurant has come to you from within a 100-mile radius. The food is a wonderful mix of Eastern and Western flavours, with such offerings as Japanese sukiyaki appearing on the menu alongside grilled Hopkins River rump steak with shiraz jus; and local green lentil dhal served with woodfired spelt bread.

2
 
Manta
Woolloomooloo
Located on Woolloomooloo wharf, this restaurant offers people-perving views as well as some great seafood. Chef Daniel Hughes offers such dishes as spaghettini with hand-picked West Australian swimmer crab meat in a chilli, garlic, white wine and tomato sauce.

3
 
Lau's Family Kitchen
St Kilda
While dishes may appear simple, they re simply good. Under the guidance of chef James Lau, this restaurant produces authentic Chinese dishes such as bean curd with minced pork.

4
 
Phamish
Darlinghurst
This stylishly relaxed BYO diner offers an array of Vietnamese options, from soft-shell crab to lovely curries. Although having recently moved from its Liverpool Street niche to the Republic apartment complex in Darlinghurst, it still commands a loyal following.

5
 
Da Noi
South Yarra
Without doubt, Melburnians are spoilt rotten when it comes to choosing an Italian eatery. This classy Italian restaurant serves Sardinian dishes that change daily according to what is fresh.

6
 
Billy Kwong
Surry Hills
According to the current SMH Good Food Guide, there is no longer a hatted Chinese restaurant in Sydney.

You simply can't resist the tasty crispy duck in biodynamic orange sauce or, for that matter, Hiramasa kingfish sashimi.