Somewhere between late-night souvlaki, rubbery dolmades and the haze of one too many ouzo hangovers, Greek food has never been given its proper dues in this country. Like most of its neighbours, the food of Greece gets lost in translation somewhere on the journey Down Under.
Enter Xanthi, the Greek contingent of the multicultural new dining precinct in the Westfield Sydney complex, with its sights firmly fixed on changing the dining public's opinion of Greek fare. In this respect, Xanthi is in good company. Bookended by Spiedo and the latest instalment in the Chat Thai saga - each championing the cause of
real regional Italian and Thai cuisines, respectively - Xanthi fits like a Speedo.
Where Xanthi differs from its neighbours is in its layout. While Spiedo and Chat Thai embrace an open floor plan and the theatricality of cooking, Xanthi is ensconced behind a white-tiled wall - a secret that not everyone is ready to learn yet. Inside you'll find tasteful decor that uses a Greek colour scheme to its advantage but doesn't overplay its hand to the point of gimmickry.
The real diehard patriotism is saved for the wine list, where 100 percent of the drops boast Greek provenance. There's even an ouzo cart for good measure in case subtlety isn't your strong suit.
The menu is dissected into
ouzomezedakia (small share plates),
plastira (pastries),
souvla (spit roast) and
kyria (mains), many of which have graduated over from owner David Tsirekas' other restaurant, perennial Petersham favourite Perama.
In many ways Xanthi can be seen as an extension of Perama, a more ambitious sibling but with the same foundations. With its plush surrounds, Xanthi has the ability to create food that will challenge some people's notions of what Greek food is and can be. In this respect, it's already an overwhelming success.
Nick Eggert
Community
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