Tucked between the Kings Cross bars, clubs and adult entertainment venues is a cheerful little Mexican eatery reminiscent of the roadside diners of Acapulco. From the outside it looks like a takeaway joint, but those who venture beyond the counter are treated to a red-hued, low-ceilinged, sandstone-walled dining room, pleasantly cluttered with South American-style wooden furniture.
Ducking into Tomatillo from hectic Darlinghurst Road is like entering another world. There's not a sombrero in sight or a mariachi band to be heard, instead the soulful jazz and blues music in the background is a balm to the ears after the pounding Cross scene. Grooving through the air is a selection of Stax hits, and tacos sure taste better with Otis Redding at your table.
We start our meal with a bowl of Southern California-imported tortilla chips and Mexican dipping sauces, followed by a selection of burritos and divine lime margaritas. Owners George Grau and Bill Komoroski have scoured the world in search of the best regional delicacies, so as a result the finest herbs, sauces and spices are imported from all over the world when they can't be sourced locally.
The spicy pork ribs with chipotle glaze sauce are delicious, tender and succulent, the sauce spicy and hearty, so by the time we're served the chorizo quesadilla we're feeling pleasantly full. But we can't help but gorge on the tortilla pockets of meat, vegetable and cheese - definitely a menu standout. They go best with one of the 10 brands of crisp Mexican beers on offer, the largest selection to be found this side of Tijuana.
Tomatillo is a fun place, as welcoming to those wishing a proper sit-down meal as those wanting to get their fill after a Kings Cross bender. It doesn't take itself too seriously, though the friendly service and quality and respect given to the food are impeccable.
Zoya Sheftalovich and Kilian David
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