It took its sweet time but the small-bar movement has finally made its way to Glebe. The debut opening, secreted away behind the suburb's favourite bottle-o, has set a new benchmark for all wine bars to come.
Entering Timbah, it's immediately obvious that this is a labour of love. As the name alludes, reclaimed timber makes up most of the decor, giving it a comfortable vintage feel without need for the just-raided-the-antique-store feel of knick-knacks on every surface. In short, Timbah doesn't need to buy credibility; it has it in spades.
On the food front, things are kept simple. Expect to see charcuterie and cheese platters, homemade fish fingers, beef empanadas and other such nibbles to quaff wine by. There's nothing extravagant, but it's well priced and serves to line the stomach. Where Timbah truly excels is in the drinks department. The depth and breadth of the wine list is nothing short of impressive, made even more so by a continually rotating list of one-off bottles courtesy of the bottle shop's extensive cellar.
Alternating drops means that the list, although thorough, never gets boring, and it offers a unique opportunity for wine novices to sample vintages that would otherwise be well beyond their means. In this respect, Timbah is truly unique in the Sydney wine scene and should be a must-visit for all wine lovers. The affable service and charms of the local crowd, it seems, are simply a bonus.
Nick Eggert
