In a battle for bragging rights, Paddington and Balmain are going head to head to see who can produce the better pub-based dining room; and the Riverview Hotel's contemporary dining room may just tilt the balance of power in Balmain's favour.
The menu here features a selection of delightfully decadent dishes that change monthly, perfectly suiting the slow ebb from warmer to cooler months. For a pre-dinner nibble, diners can expect dishes such as the potato, white anchovy and rosemary pizza bread, which will delight with its slightly chewy yet wonderfully flaked crust; it arrives with translucent razor-thin slices of potato, topped with plump, briny white anchovies, and scattered with fresh rosemary.
A tapas plate, shared as an entree, yields a melange of contrasting flavours including arancini balls infused with a rich osso bucco sauce, a selection of pork and fennel salami, fat stuffed zucchini flowers, and an ethereal chicken liver parfait accompanied by a sticky and sweet persimmon chutney, the latter of which cuts through the former like an expertly honed chef's knife.
Mains are equally well received, with a special of snapper perfectly cooked, the crisp and deeply caramelised skin welcomingly juxtaposed to the fillet's soft flesh. A heartier main of slow-roasted lamb shoulder proves just as satisfying. Very much an ode to winter, the tender yet succulent lamb arrives on a bed of spiced pureed carrot, wilted kale, peas and baby carrots.
Desserts are equally exceptional with a plate of churros, made complete with a sinfully rich chocolate dipping sauce. The chocolate fondant is also sure to delight diners; its rich and gooey centre a winning match to the accompanying espresso ice cream and pungent orange cream.
With such refined fare on offer, the Riverview Dining Room may just give Paddo pub devotees a reason to head across the Anzac Bridge.
Daniel Bloom
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