Set in a strip mall along a busy main road in Clayton, River Kwai emerges as one of the only fine dining options in the vicinity, flanked as it is by a bleak combination of convenience stores and fish 'n' chip haunts. The restaurant's decor of deep red walls, Thai wooden carvings and ornate wall hangings provides an exotic escape from the traffic-laden street.
Locals have the restaurant's chef and director, Julia, to thank for introducing colourful tastes to the block with her spicy blend of Thai and Burmese cuisines. The real River Kwai borders the regions of Thailand and Burma, and the restaurant sets out to achieve a similar aim, presenting a menu that artfully bridges the two cuisines.
Typical Thai curries, such as a concoction of roasted duck, lychee, cherry tomato, kaffir lime and coconut cream, sit alongside dishes such as the Burmese ame thar a cho - a red beef curry flavoured with onion, garlic, ginger, galangal and tamarind. Vegetarians get more than their usual share of spice with an entire menu of mains ranging from gang Panang pug (vegetarian red curry with tofu and vegetables) to pekla hin (Burmese curry with potato and split peas).
From soups to stir-fries and salads, the range of recipes is dazzling, making the restaurant's monthly tasting day a welcome option. For $20 per head, diners can indulge in an all-you-can-eat exploration of the menu.
Maya Linden
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