Intimate lighting and warm, earthen tones greet you like an old friend as you enter through glass doors and into this Mediterranean brasserie, the decor alone telling you that this place may just be your dining salvation. An island of refinement in a sea of deep-fried fast food chains.
Shrugging off its role as an early morning takeaway coffee hub, by night Olio transforms into a sleek and contemporary Mediterranean brasserie and wine lounge for young professionals and North Shore commuters alike.
Marble tables and leather banquettes denote the wine bar section, giving the space a feel of casual sophistication, while a beaded partition then cleverly separates the dining area beyond without making patrons feel isolated from the rest of the room.
Diners here can expect a menu brimming with modern interpretations of Mediterranean cuisine. An entree of seared scallops and crispy pork on a bed of fennel, rocket and red grapefruit shows the progressive nature of Head Chef Damien Naughton's cooking - the sweet citrus of the grapefruit balancing effortlessly against the rich scallops and salty pork.
The main offerings are a similar collection of modern dishes with a firm grounding in classic techniques. A slow-cooked beef cheek daily special is full-flavoured and pushes the boundaries of tenderness. We can only hope it becomes a regular on Naughton's ever-changing menu.
After working alongside such culinary heavyweights as Kylie Kwong, Damien Pignolet and Guillaume Brahimi it appears that Naughton is more than capable of stepping up and running his own kitchen. Thankfully he has decided to do it close to home.
Nick Eggert
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