When the tiramisu is made at 6am by one of the 'nonna' chefs, you know a place is the real deal. The nonna in question is Angela, the mother of David Solari who, with charming wife Angeline, runs Caffe Allegria. The other kitchen force is Josie Granata from Naples and together they are loved for their 'nonna style' of cooking. No short cuts are taken here, a fact officially recognised by the Accademia Italiana della Cucina in 2003.
A dozen pasta and risotto dishes are made with spaghetti, penne, tortellini, fettuccine and homemade gnocchi. Sauces include the stalwarts of bolognese, napoletana, alla panna and carbonara. According to Angeline, the marinara sauce is often praised: "People rave about it."
The 20-odd pizzas include tasty vegetarian toppings such as asparagus and egg; and potatoes and herbs with a garlic butter base. Light meals include a good-looking antipasto plate, while the mains work across veal, fish, chicken and fillet steak.
The specials board sings with traditionally prepared produce such as rabbit and goat. This is where the authenticity of Allegria's cuisine shines through. If you can resist Angela's tiramisu, try the date and apple cake topped with buttery caramelised coconut. These comforting sweets are a good match for the restaurant space, which is warmed by Italian community and traditions.
Roz Taylor
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