While the Merivale brand has made its fortune with sprawling drinking dens, the latest addition to George Street's labyrinthine Ivy complex is an intimate space that makes the most of recent changes to liquor licensing laws.
Named after the pedestrian laneway it spills out into, Ash Street Bistro promises to bring a little bit of Paris to Sydney. Its warm wood decor, arch-backed chairs and ornate fittings certainly look the part, as does the laneway location which provides welcome haven from the hustle of George Street. Fittingly for a place where rows of wine bottles dominate the scenery, sommelier Franck Moreau's wine list is a standout, with 10 of the cellar's 270 labels offered in a range of tasting sizes to suit the occasion.
With former Lotus head chef Lauren Murdoch in the kitchen, the food also makes a statement. Loosely grouped under a European umbrella, these are tapas plates done with style. Pork smallgoods rule the roost with Spain's iconic jamon iberico, cured pork (capocollo) and melt-in-the mouth ham from local producer Quattro Stelle offered. Elsewhere the chef's deft hand shines through with twists on traditional European staples such as pan-fried black pudding with fresh apple; and buffalo mozzarella with baked green tomato. Drink, dine or both and you're likely to walk away with smile.
Jen Paterson
Open
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Breakfast
Lunch
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Dinner
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Late
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Mon-Fri noon-midnight
French, Italian, Spanish and Tapas
Mains: $8-$28
Payment accepted: MasterCard, Visa, American Express and EFTPOS
Licensed with bar. Wine is available by the glass.
Gourmet Traveller Feature Review - "Tucked away from the central spectacle of Sydney's Ivy is the Parisian-chic Ash Street Cellar. It's the perfect place to enjoy the wilderness of the city at a safe remove."
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