While the Merivale brand has made its fortune with sprawling drinking dens, the latest addition to George Street's labyrinthine Ivy complex is an intimate space that makes the most of recent changes to liquor licensing laws.
Named after the pedestrian laneway it spills out into, Ash Street Cellar promises to bring a little bit of Paris to Sydney. Its warm wood decor, arch-backed chairs and ornate fittings certainly look the part, as does the laneway location, which provides welcome haven from the hustle of George Street. Fittingly for a place where rows of wine bottles dominate the scenery, sommelier Franck Moreau's wine list is a standout, with 10 of the cellar's 270 labels offered in a range of tasting sizes to suit the occasion.
With Ormeggio alum Alfie Spivio in the kitchen, the food also makes a statement. Loosely grouped under a European umbrella, these are tapas plates done with style. Pork smallgoods rule the roost with Spain's iconic jamon serrano, pork lonza and prosciutto di Parma making up the bulk of charcuterie starters. Elsewhere, the chef's deft hand shines through with influences ranging far and wide. Grilled tomino cheese with poached pear, watercress and truffle honey is an exercise in decadence before a fresh kingfish tartare with green apple, young celery and witlof appears to cleanse the palate beautifully. Drink, dine or both and you're likely to walk away with smile.
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Breakfast
Lunch
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Dinner
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Late
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Mon-Fri noon-midnight
French, Italian, Spanish and Tapas
Mains: $8-$28
Payment accepted: MasterCard, Visa, American Express and EFTPOS
Licensed with bar. Wine is available by the glass.
Gourmet Traveller Feature Review - "Tucked away from the central spectacle of Sydney's Ivy is the Parisian-chic Ash Street Cellar. It's the perfect place to enjoy the wilderness of the city at a safe remove."
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